HONEY-B-HEALTHY™
FEEDING STIMULANT WITH ESSENTIAL OILS
(Spearmint and LemongrassOil Concentrate)

Helps promote healthy vigorous hives when used as a feeding stimulant. The 8oz bottle makes up to 12 gallons of solution at one teaspoon (5ml) per quart of 1:1 sucrose or fructose solution. Our new gallon container makes up to 200 gallons of feeding stimulant. For commercial use we recommend adding one quart of Honey-B-Healthy to a 55-gallon drum of 1:1 sugar syrup.
Use as a feeding stimulant for late winter, early spring, and during dearths of nectar. Also, add to your feeding mix to help build up packages, nucs and swarms.

Ordering Information:
16 oz. Bottles available for $22.95 + S&H.
Gallon Pails for $125.00 + S&H.
Call for Bulk Prices and Specials!

Honey-B-Healthy, Inc.
108 Blackiston Ave.
Cumberland, Md 21502
Phone: (301) 724-3529
E-mail: bob@honeybhealthy.com

Dealer Nearest you: Honey-B-Healthy.com

 



Honey-B-Healthy
Helpful Benefits

- Helps preserve feeding solutions by helping to keep feeding jars clean.
(See difference between treated
and un-treated syrup to the right.)
- Use as a feeding stimulant for late winter, early spring, and during dearth's of nectar.
- Helps calms bees when used as a spray.
- When introducing new queens helps prevent balling when sprayed on caged queen and bees.
- Spraying bees helps prevent fighting when combining nucs, swarms and colonies.
- When sprayed on new foundation helps encourage the bees to draw out the new comb foundation.

Helps promote healthy, vigorous hives. The 8 oz. Bottle makes up to 12 gallons of solution at one teaspoon (5ml) or 6 gallons at two teaspoons (10ml) per quart of 1:1 sucrose or fructose solution. This recommended one-teaspoon dose could be increased to two-teaspoons for increased consumption. Use as a feeding stimulant for late winter, early spring, fall feedings and dearths of nectar. Furthermore, add to your feeding mix to help build up packages nucs and swarms. Essential oils are volatile and may evaporate from open containers. We suggest keeping the concentrate and solution mix tightly sealed when kept for extended periods of time. We have found feeding with inverted jars above the brood nest prevents evaporation; in addition, using a jar with a large lid area with many holes helps in a faster consumption of the solution.

Our concentrate can be mixed in syrup solutions ahead of time and kept in tightly sealed containers and fed when needed. Also, adding a little Honey-B-Healthy along with a little honey to a one pound grease patty helps in the consumption of the patties by the bees. We recommend our Mineral Salt/Wintergreen grease Patty for best consumption and colony benefits.

Lemongrass oil contains some of the same natural pheromones that bees use to attract workers (such as geraniol). When this oil is applied to the bees and new-caged queens, they become calm and all having the same natural odor.

Feeding Honey-B-Healthy. We use Honey-B-Healthy in early spring and during periods when no nectar is available and to build up packages, nucs and swarms. It is made with lecithin, sodium lauryl sulfate, water, lemongrass oil, and spearmint oil. Two teaspoonfuls in a quart of 1:1 sugar syrup delivers a total of one cc of both essential oils; the essential oils are evenly distributed throughout the syrup. Honey-B-Healthy helps produce rapid build up of bees when used as a feeding stimulant. In addition, using 4 teaspoons in a quart of one to one sugar water of Honey-B-Healthy as a spray instead of smoke helps calm the bees. Acts as a bee calmer when sprayed on the bees and helps prevent fighting when combining nucs, swarms and colonies. When sprayed on new foundation helps encourage the bees to draw out new comb or plastic comb.

Honey-B-Healthy can cause robbing during times of extreme dearth's of nectar, especially during the fall. If this occurs we suggest feeding during evening within the hive and reduce the entrance to prevent robbers from entering.

The following are two other methods to help maintain healthy productive honey bee colonies.

1) Screened bottom boards: [1/8" or 3.15 mm screen] with at least 3/4" [1.9cm] of dead space under the screen. We made an opening in the back of the bottom board for inserting poster-boards [white demonstration board, coated with Vaseline or petroleum jelly]. This technique takes advantage of the natural mite fall that occurs throughout the year. If you have no sticky material under the screen, mites will crawl back up onto the bees; they have no problem crawling as high as 4 inches. Sand works well in place of sticky material--the mites die on sandy surfaces. Some beekeepers have nothing under the screens and the mites fall down into the grass where they cannot get back up to the bees.

2) Grease patties containing wintergreen and mineral salt: Formula: 4 lbs [1.8 kg] of granulated sugar, 1.5 lbs [.68 kg] of hydrogenated vegetable oil, 1/2lb to 1lb [.227 kg - 454kg] of honey (additional honey requires more granulated sugar and use honey that is free of AFB spores), and 1/3 cup [.072 kg] of blended trace mineral salt, and 1.6 ozs [45 cc] of natural or synthetic wintergreen oil; one batch will treat about 8-10 hives, depending on number of brood chambers, size of patties, etc. If too thin when mixed add a little more granulated sugar, and if too dry (falling apart) add a little more honey. We place 5 small patties (about 2 ozs each) on top of each brood chamber. In addition a 1/2" [1.27 cm] "roll" across the entrance about 3/4" [1.9 cm] back in (rain will wash it away) can also be used along with the patties on the brood nest. We find that putting the grease patties on in June and leaving them on all year gives good knock down of mites [doubles or triples the natural mite fall through the screened bottom boards] and prevents the mites from building up to such high levels. When the grease patties are used consistently [replaced every 2 weeks or so during the summer], we see no tracheal mites and Varroa mites seldom exceed infestation of 5 cells per 100 in our area. We keep the grease patties on all winter; they need to be checked monthly or so.

Formic Acid Honey-B-Healthy Fumigator:
Formic Acid Honey-B-Healthy Fumigator: We have been experimenting with formic acid treatments. Warning: Please be aware, this is not a recommendation for beekeepers to apply formic acid to their hives to control mites. Please contact your state apiarist for information on legal methods for controlling mites. We made 20 formic acid fumigators for treating hives with high mite numbers. We use an absorbent pad [Kendall undergarment, available from hospital supply stores or drugstores] at the top of the hive, protected from the bees by a plastic or aluminum screen on the underside, a heavy plastic sheet or aluminum flashing on the upper surface. [a sandwich of three layers, with the same x-y dimensions as a brood chamber] and spaced 3/4"[using wood molding] Above the top bars of the upper brood chamber. Bee ways, of 3/8" (.95cm) are left on the sides of the fumigator. We pour the formic acid, mixed with 10% Honey-B-Healthy [mixed fresh each time] onto the pad and place it on top of the brood chamber, with the absorbent material down. The amount of formic acid mix used depends on the number and depth of the brood chambers; eg., we use 2.8 ozs (85ml) for a single deep chamber and for two Illinois chambers [3.2 ozs or 95ml], and slightly more for a deep + Illinois [3.6 ozs or 110ml], etc. The fumigator is placed on the hive, on the upper brood chamber, for 24 hrs or less during warm to mild weather (19-30°C; 65-86°F). We reduce the entrance to 3.5" [ 8.9 cm] at the center. The bees quickly begin fanning the air through the brood nest and out of the small entrance; you can smell the formic acid coming out of the center entrance.

We measured the temperature of the air coming out of the entrance and it was nearly always 90°F (32.2°C). We get excellent mite kill on most colonies (91% in 16 hours), including mites inside sealed brood cells and we see very little interruption of queen performance, and a balled queen reduction from 25% to 5% (because of the HBH). In early experiments, we conducted similar trials with formic acid only (no HBH), at the same concentration and amount, and lost several queens (one out of four 25%). Queen losses were reduced by 22.6% using the HBHFA mix. To eliminate any queen losses we cage the queen and place her above the fumigator during the one or two day treatment period. The summer of 2002 we began to spray exposed bees on and between exposed brood supers along with the entrance with HBH sugar water spray (4 tsp. Per quart). This along with adding HBH to the 50% formic eliminated queen losses. If you decide to only spray the bees with HBH and not add it to the formic acid reduce the formic by 10%.

We always make up the solution in an open, outside area or in a fume hood, and we use a hydrometer to obtain exactly 50% (sp. grav. = 1.110). We use a hydrometer because we have found considerable variation in strength of formic acid in containers we purchased; some were off as much as 30%. This may be one reason that published reports give variable results for the use of formic acid. One must be aware too that formic acid obtained from some commercial sources may contain heavy metal contaminants--these could be harmful to the bees, to humans or to the environment. Always inquire about the possibility of heavy metal contaminants.

Please see our web site for a listing of specific gravities correlated with percent formic acid: http://rnoel.50megs.com/2000/chart.htm

We believe this new method of applying FA is effective for the following reasons: We have an air space just above the upper brood chamber; heat from the brood rises into this air space. The upper plastic or aluminum sheet prevents this warm air from being lost to upper supers. (We kept supers on during treatments in order to be able to test for FA in the honey above the fumigator). The FA is much heavier than air, so it has a tendency to sink, not rise. This is probably why so many investigators had variable results when placing pads of FA on the bottom board. So, the heat rises from the brood, activates the FA in the absorbent pad, causing evaporation.

The bees respond with a roar of fanning, and the air circulates through the brood frames and eventually exits the small entrance opening (3/8"x3.5"). The circulated air is warm (90°F); the FA penetrates capped cells, killing mites inside, but not the brood. Within 24 hrs, virtually all FA is gone and the fumigator can be removed. We saw in all colonies, including 12 previously treated with Apistan, that mite drop occurred at a high daily rate for 13 days due to dead mites in the cells dropping from newly emerged bees. Some colonies produced counts exceeding 3,000 mites on a single board in 3 days. This number of 13 days (16 days for drones) corresponds to the number of days required for capped brood to complete development and exit the cells; as bees exit the cells, dead mites fall between the frames through the screened bottom, onto the detector board below.

The only draw back is a loss (50 or more) of some newly emerging young bees. This loss in minimal considering the thousands of bees saved due the mite kill in the cells. Observing this loss of these newly emerging bees is a good indication of a good mite kill in the cells.
Note: Liquid Formic Acid in not approved for use in the US. This information is provided for countries where Liquid Formic is approved and for researchers who want to try this method. For more information on formic use contact your State Apiary Inspector for approved treatments for honeybee colonies.

Note: Liquid Formic Acid is not an Approved Miticide in the U.S.A. Contact your State Apiary Inspector for approved treatments for Parasitic Mite control in honey bees colonies.

TESTIMONIALS:
"I fed Honey-B-Healthy to seven swarms during the spring of "99" and had never seen colonies buildup so rapidly and draw out such beautiful comb." Also, the brood cappings were nicely rounded with a light color with healthy bees hatching."
Tom Sisler
Former Bee Inspector
Oldtown, MD, September 2000

"I ordinarily don't use smoke except when I encounter a colony which is excessively defensive. In this situation, I obtain better results with H-B-H syrup spray than with smoke. I ordinarily introduce queens with a Thurber Long Cage, but when I used direct introduction with H-B-H syrup spray, the queen was accepted immediately."
Dan Hendricks
Hobbyist Beekeeper
Western Washington State, November 2000


"I fed essential oils (wintergreen and spearmint) along with Apistan to colonies on the verge of collapse from Varroasis for 21 days. After the combination treatment the colonies were practically varroa free and were healthy."
Harry Mallow
Former Bee Inspector
Cumberland, MD, September 2000


"I really do believe in HBH along with regular use of wintergreen grease patties - they are the backbone on reviving and sustaining honey bees at my apiary here in the Mountains of Maryland. They work wonders in maintaining healthy colonies. The HBH stimulates the colonies while the wintergreen grease patties control the mites."
Becky DeWitt
Kitzmiller, Maryland, December 2000

"I use the HBH at 1 teaspoon to a quart and find the bees readily draw out comb on plastic frames faster than they will on wax foundation fed regular sugar syrup. I also requeened a nasty hive using HBH 4 teaspoons per quart to calm the hive and they accepted the new queen readily in direct release."
(Jeff, sprays the queen completely, both on the top and underneath before releasing along with spraying the bees to calm the colony)
Jeff Longstaff
Forest, OH, December 2000

"Just a quick note to say all is now going well with my 10 hives, I had a huge problem when the farmers sprayed the rice fields, I lost so many bees, so I gave them emergency feeds with your Honey B Healthy...
The results were just amazing. I had an explosion of bees so much so that I had to split my original colonies!. So a heart felt thank you."
Reverend Je Kan Adler-Collins MA PGCE
Fukuoka Prefecture, Japan, April 2003

"I've started feeding again and have been using the HBH since about January 1, 2003. This winter is going well for my bees, and I'm pretty sure the HBH is a part of my wintering success. Last winter I started with 55 colonies and ended with 25 - a disaster. What's worse is that some of the 25 were so weak that they got taken over by Africanized bees. This year, I started with 42. I now have 44! 30 are 8-10 frames or better, which will enable me to rent them to the almonds for top dollar. The others are receiving weekly HBH and seem to be coming on strong. The HBH has also been an advantage in requeening the Africanized colonies. It seems to calm them (a little, kind of, sort of...), but mostly it is beneficial in wiping out their pheromones. My take rate with these colonies introducing new Italian queens has been 100% when I use the HBH. I understand that this is way above normal; and might be an additional benefit of HBH. I normally introduce the queens indirectly in cages. I introduce the new queens at the same time I find and kill the old ones. I spray HBH (3-4 tsp per quart) on the queen cage, then on the frames of brood immediately on either side of where I place the cage, then a general blast in the upper and lower box. I have not lost a queen yet with this method."
M. Mosco
CALIFORNIA March 2003

"I find that spraying the interior parts of a hive reduces by about half the amount of time it takes to get a swarm to voluntarily enter the hive."
Fred C. Hollen
Waynesboro, Va June 2003

Caution: These testimonials are not necessarily the findings of the HBH founders. Beekeepers using any of these methods must use them at their own risk. Those wanting to try the direct release of queens should experiment with old queens before using newly purchased queens. Sometimes queens a hard to introduce using any method. Perhaps Murray's method of spraying the caged queen and surrounding bees would be the best and safest method to introduce queens. When attempting direct release spray queen completely, especially her underside.

This flyer prepared by Bob Noel.

Note: Spraying queen and bees may cause the bees to pull out supersedure cells. The bees are unable to recognize their queen due to all the bees having the same natural odor. After a few days the oils wear off and the bees and the colony returns to normal.



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